Saturday, March 16, 2013

Lighting Techniques - High & Low Key

High key & low key photography
(Unit Content 2)

In this post I'm going to talk about what high key & low key photography is and how they create different effects. Also, I'll go over the light and camera settings and the equipments. So after reading through this post you shall know that how you can create nice and good images in high & low key.

High and low key photography are two effects in the photography world. Basically, these type of photographs either use extremely high levels of white or black. Both high key and low key images make an intensive use of contrast, but in very different way. This intensive contrast that both lighting create by using different lightings and different backgrounds help you to isolate your subject and make the viewers focus on your subject.

So... How the light can change the effect/the feel of an image?

High and low key lighting are typical examples of how a photographer can use lights to influence the viewers' emotions and perception of the subject mood. 



Let's start with...
HIGH KEY

What is high key photography?

High key photography is achieved by using lots of lighting. It seeks to eliminate harsh shadows and create bright environments. Overall, the images are very bright and contains lots of light tones and highlights with few mid tones and dark areas. No harsh shadows, the contrast is fairly low and usually the images have pure white (bleached out) background. It's generally used to convey happy, fun and beauty. High key (& low key) regularly used for model and for product photography.

Here is an example of a histogram for a high key image.














Lighting Equipment

The best way to produce high key images is to use flash lights.

* 3 or 4 flash lights     * Soft boxes     * Lamp stands     * White background     * Reflector

Lighting Setup

As you already know what equipments you need to use to create a high key image, now let's think about the setup. The image below, shows you a basic and the most popular setup for high key. With this method you can achieve the effect of the bright and shadow less lighting. Use 4 lights to produce a high key image, but don't worry if you have only 3 lights you can still achieve it.

Just to know that before I'll start explaining the diagram, the high key lighting is not always producing the high key effect, because it somehow can be lost if your model/subject consists lots of mid or dark tones.


First, position your subject in the center of the white backdrop. Next, setup two lights on your subject (45°) with soft boxes. The one on the right will be your key light and that's your main source of light on the subject. The one on the left will be your fill light which will eliminate the harsh shadows that the key light produces. Finally, set up two other lights in angle with soft boxes, facing at/lighting up the background. The back lights should be more powerful than the front lights.  (Note: If you're only shooting with the two front lights, you will get a gray, shadow filled background. An image with a gray background and with lots of mid tones called Mid key photography.)

In addition, there is a function in your camera that could help you in setting up the power of your lights and to get the correct camera settings. So after setting up the studio, take a test shoot then go to play images and press display twice (if you've got a Canon). You will see the actual image in a smaller format and the histogram of your image next to it. If you see that your screen is flashing in black at some point on the image that means those areas are totally white (bleached out/no details). So, if you can reached that to have all or most of your background flashing in black then you'll have the correct lighting set up. Try to avoid black flashing on your subject and watch out to don't over expose the image.




             <-- wrong -->


                -- right -->







Camera Settings

The camera settings are really depend on the lighting condition, but in studio I always start off with...

ISO 100     S/Tv  1/125th     F 8.0

...because it's a good starting point and if it's necessary I could always change the settings after I took some test shots. For high key try to adjust your camera right so that can let in lots of light. So leave the ISO at 100 because you're going to use 4 lights that produce lots of light. The 1/125th shutter speed is a good speed for portraits and long enough to let in light, then you just have to play with your f-stop to get the right exposure.


Let's
talk about...

LOW KEY

What is low key photography?

Low key photography is achieved by using reduced lighting. So the key here is to produce a dark image AND to use lighting in a very selective way so that only illuminates a specific portion of the image. As low key uses less lighting, the images have high contrast and they contain lots of dark tones and colors. The intense shadows become the primary element of the composition. These low key images convey a sense of drama or tension to the image. Overall, low key photography is a simple technique to create moody images and if you're doing portraits, the low key settings could allow you to show the texture of the skin.

Here is an example of a histogram for a low key image.












Studio set up

There are lots of ways to setup low key shots. First, make sure you have a seamless black background. The choice of light is up to you but make sure you avoid any light spillage onto the background. Also position your subject a bit away from the backdrop. These two things could help you to get a nice and totally black background because the camera won't pick up any detail from the back.

Here is a simple setup for low key.












On this diagram you can see that there is only one flash light on the right (45°). Make sure the power of the flash is turned down so it does not blow out your subject too much.

If you want to give some nice hair light or provide little back lighting try this setup..















The trick to get that kind of look you want is to manipulating your lighting and positioning your subject, so the shadows fall in the right spots. Just play around with different angle of lighting, modifiers (snoot,soft box,barn doors, etc.) and different intensities of flash to see their effects. 


Camera settings

 For low key shots, you can have variety of the camera settings. You'll have to play with the exposure and aperture to achieve the best effect for your particular lighting setup. The trick here is to minimize the light entering the camera while not making everything too dark. So, leave the ISO at 100 which keeps the image quality and avoid noise. Shutter speed 1/125th is a good speed for portraits.

TO SUM UP..

I did a little comparison diagram.

Monday, March 11, 2013

Research - Strobe Photographer

Edward Horsford
(Unit content 2)

Edward used sound trigger, strobes and one stick to take these images. He's using a custom made trigger that designed himself. He was shooting in the dark and he'd the strobes on lightstands and the SLR on tripod. 
Generally, he used smallish ballons. The ballons mounted on a stand or in the air. Most of his shots he had the ballons filled with water and with some dye. In addition, he always planned that how he's going to be shoot and what he wants to achive. Think of new angles, taken many test shots,experiment and post editing at the end. 

Now I'll show you some technique that he used and the results of his work.

Technique 1: This time he was about experimenting with extremes of color. He used yellow gel on one speedlite to color the background. The other speedlite used to illuminate the subject. The ballon had filled with dye. He also used black *gobos to prevent spill onto subject.


*gobo = is a short form of "goes between optics" as in something that goes between your light and your lens.  They are there to partially block light. 


On the left is an SB600 strobe set on 1/64th power. SB800 on the right, 1/64th with yellow gel.The red is his working space. Below is the result images of this setting and few other images using this technique but with different gel color.


























Technique 2: Two speedlights placed at very acute angles to subject with gobos to prevent spill onto working area. Ballon filled with dyed water. 


SB600 on left and below on 1/64th power and SB800 on right and above on 1/64th.










Studio Techniques - Strobe

Studio Techniques
(Unit content 2)

There are many studio techniques that you could pick up in a studio. 
Like -  camera movements, differential focus, lighting ratios, freezing movement, motion blur, etc.

Here is a link that I found useful about lighting ratios. http://digital-photography-school.com/lighting-ratios-to-make-or-break-your-portrait

This time, I'm going to talk about how to freeze an action/movement. This is just one technique that I've learned in class. This topic is called...

Strobe Photography/High Speed Photography

Energie by Karjul's Photostream

Basically High speed photography is a technique of capturing motions (that's not visible to the naked eyes) with a very fast shutter speed or with strobe light. - What's strobe light? - As I mentioned in an earlier post, strobe light is a lamp that produces very short, intense flashes that has the ability to catch very fast actions. So, the extremely fast flashes of light and the duration of the flash that stops the action.

To freeze a movement you can use more or less any SLR camera and you can either use studio head/flash head or speedlite. Speedlite could be better to use because the speed of the light is way faster than the studio light's. You should need a flash trigger too that just pops on the hot shoe and all it does whenever you take a picture, it fires the flashes and illuminate your subject. Also, use a tripod to eliminate camera shake.













If you decided to use flash, it should be essential to be in a dark room as it allows you to set up your camera at a long exposure (5-10secs). It's recommended to use beauty dish/es for these type of images because it has the quality of light and it produces nice and crispy images. 

A scientist called Harold "Doc" Edgerton is widely considered by many as the father of high-speed photography. He invented the strobe which is the foundation for most high speed still imaging today.
Harold Edgerton's photographs proved that the speed of photography can be captured using the speed of light instead of shutter speed.

Harold Edgerton
Before I started capturing my own strobe photographs, I've been looking at other photographers' images, their techniques and the equipments they've used. 


Pomegranate Splash by Muhammad Ahmed










Blue Wall by Martin Gatz - (2 Vivitar 285 HV at 1/32 power. One from the left and one from above. All with snoot. No Photoshop tricks.)

Also, here are two videos about how to take high speed images. One's with flash and one's without flash.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUtrNJN_4zY  - flash
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89gdrdGUkSQ  - none flash

The next post will be a research of Photographer Edward Horsford who has perfected the art of photographing exploding balloons full of water. He freezes them as they leave his hands to explode.

"I'm trying to create works that are interesting and highly unique."